The complexities surrounding Black hair have long been misunderstood and overlooked in major beauty stores. Growing up with thick, coily hair, I often found myself searching the aisles of beauty supply stores for products that catered to my unique hair type. This experience is all too common for many Black individuals who came of age during a time when Black hair care was not given the attention it deserved in mainstream beauty culture. However, in recent years, there has been a surge of brands and founders introducing products specifically designed for natural hair. While there are now plenty of options available, a new debate has emerged on TikTok questioning the effectiveness of these products compared to more mainstream brands.
The discussion originated with a creator highlighting why certain brands like Olaplex and K18, which are marketed towards straight hair types, seem to outperform traditional Black hair care products. The argument put forth was that these brands are rooted in science, utilizing technology to develop their formulas rather than relying solely on oils and butters. This perspective sparked a heated debate within the beauty creator community, prompting responses from prominent voices in the industry. Cosmetic chemist and creator Javon Ford offered his own insights, emphasizing that while brands like Olaplex, K18, Redken, and Pureology boast science-based formulas, their success also hinges on their marketing strategies. Bonding technology, for example, is a key selling point for these brands. On the other hand, Black hair care products often emphasize natural ingredients like shea butter and coconut oil, known for their moisturizing and softening properties.
While these natural ingredients are beneficial for hydrating and nourishing curls prone to dryness and breakage, some argue that innovation in Black hair care has been limited by a focus on traditional formulas. However, there are Black-owned brands like Design Essentials and Mizani that have long championed innovative products, though they were initially more commonly found in salons rather than mainstream beauty stores. As someone who regularly styles and protects my natural hair, I have found that technology-advanced formulas like clarifying shampoos and bonding treatments have played a crucial role in maintaining the health of my curls. These products, designed for all hair types, have not only improved hair health but also promoted inclusivity in the beauty industry.
While there is value in science-backed formulas, it is important to recognize that the needs and preferences of consumers vary. Rather than pitting science-based products against those rooted in natural ingredients, the focus should be on finding products that align with individual hair care goals. As Ford aptly notes, deeply nourishing brands serve a different purpose than those aiming to deliver results that may not necessarily be natural. Ultimately, the key to a successful hair care routine lies in being realistic about what you want to achieve and finding products that cater to those specific needs.